Greg Long [Big Wave Surfer]

By: Editor | March 03, 2011 | Ten by Ten

From the surf of San Clemente, Greg Long was raised in the water. He rode his way to competitive surfing as early as 12 years old, claiming his throne, and was ranked alongside the best of the pros for the Trestles’ NSSA National Championship’s Open Men’s Title in 2001. But amidst his adolescent accolades, Long turned the tides on competition and tested his strengths all across the globe, treading new water for the world’s biggest waves. Distinguishing himself famously for soldiering the colossal wakes, Long has rallied up a slew of sponsors — notably Billabong. And because of his ardent enthusiasm in the surfing community and his inability to ignore a challenge, his nonconformist form has grown from one of the most prominent young surfers to one of the most notably limitless professionals.

When was the last time you were truly embarrassed and why?
A few months ago, I ripped a hole in my shorts during a yoga class. Yes, there was plenty hanging out and plenty of people who witnessed it.

What is the best advice you’ve ever received, and who gave it to you?
Mom and Pop always encouraged me to follow my dreams and make sure I was having fun along the way. I have lived my life by their words and have enjoyed every second of the journey to this very day.

What is the most important decision you ever made?
To follow my passion for surfing and strive to make a career out of it. Doing so has been a wild adventure full of amazing travels, great friends and good times. I feel very fortunate to live the lifestyle that I do.

What is your favorite …
Restaurant: Andaman Thai, Lincoln City, Ore.
Chevy Chase movie: Caddyshack
Animal (extinct, endangered or domestic): Dolphin
Song to make out to: Marvin Gaye’s “Lets get it on”
Vacation destination: Puerto Escondido, Mexico

What’s the strangest number you have programmed in your phone?
The number for a National Weather Service voice-automated recording, which gives real-time offshore buoy readings of the wind and swell size.

List three things you cannot live without:
Air, water and food. You can take the rest away, and I would still be happy.

What contemporary artist do you admire and why?
Bono. He seems like a very selfless individual, and I am very inspired by all of his humanitarian work.

How will you spend this evening?
Getting ready for the Eddie Aikau Big Wave contest, which might possibly run tomorrow at Waimea Bay, Hawaii. This will include last-minute tinkering with boards and equipment, a good dinner, nice glass of wine, a bit of yoga and a good night’s sleep.

What is your take on the WikiLeaks controversy?
In the long term, we will benefit, as it will increase transparency in the actions of governments worldwide.

How would you define love?
Love is a feeling that comes about when something truly resonates deep within your heart and soul. It will bring about a sense of freedom, light and happiness that is indescribable.

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