Fasion Designer Matthew Williamson’s Global Revolution

By: Kristen Spaulding | February 19, 2010 | Fashion

Last September, Matthew Williamson returned home to British soil to fete London Fashion Week’s 25th anniversary. Williamson’s seven-year hiatus in New York was a bit of an evolution. The so-called, king of boho’s spring/summer 2010 collection offers a more tailored and sleek look. However, pixilated graphic prints and luxurious metallic fabrics allude to the fact that Williamson’s celebratory fantasy approach to design isn’t going anywhere. It’s the juxtaposition of the sophisticated shapes along with playful prints that makes Williamson’s designs covet-worthy.

This forward progression seems fitting for a designer who once helmed the creative direction of the Italian fashion house of Emilio Pucci. Although, his position ended in 2008, his creative focus is now solely on the Matthew Williamson brand. Fans can get a glimpse of his first-ever men’s collection debut in February as well as the U.S. e-commerce site. Malibu Magazine caught up with Williamson to discuss his evolution and the new line.

You have been called the “King of Boho.” However, your spring 2010 collection was much more sleek and structured. Is that your evolution as a designer or is it a response to the times?/
The new collection is certainly about the development of the Matthew Williamson woman — continually evolving toward the more polished, structured and luxe look that I’ve been gravitating toward for the past few seasons.
All the signature, core MW elements present themselves in the color, popping prints and heavy beading, but the girl wearing this collection has an edgier, more modern approach to her fashion and femininity.  

How did it feel to arrive back on British soil to celebrate London Fashion Week’s 25th anniversary? Will you return to show in New York next season?
It was an honor to show at home and be invited back to share in celebrating London fashion. Without bias, London is certainly my favorite place to show. The energy is always inspiring. For the meantime, it seems like I’m here to stay.  

Do you think the recent opening of your U.S. flagship store in New York and the launch of your U.S. e-commerce will affect your designs and if so, how?
The New York flagship and e-commerce launch offer more American consumers the opportunity to easily access my collections; I would want to keep offering them the same designs that have made them followers of the brand!

Your collections usually express Indian influences. How has that translated to your men’s collection?
I think you’ll be able to see an exotic influence translated through the combination of rich color, plush fabrics and bold prints.  

You’re known for using travel as inspiration for your collections. In a time when many are cutting back on travel, due to expenses, are you? And if so, will your collection reflect that or instead be a celebratory fantasy?
It’s very important to maintain your original vision as a designer despite the environment and influence of fleeting trends. My passion is to create collections that are continually aspirational to own and love.

What is the first thing you contemplate when conceiving a new collection, and from where do you draw your inspiration?
Inspiration can come in so many forms. It’s just important to keep yourself open to and aware of influences — traveling has always been a strong factor into each season as previously noted, although this season was inspired mostly by an artistic effect. For spring/summer 2010, I was heavily influenced by the artist Jim Lambie and his installations — mostly by his use of graphic floral prints and strong neon colorways.

What is your thought process when going back and forth between designing for men and designing for women?
The menswear launch is really exciting to me as a designer. It is interesting because in the 12 years that I have been working in fashion, I have been designing a fantasy of women’s wear, so this was the first opportunity that I had to design and to think about myself as a man, and how I would wear the clothes — it’s a very self-indulgent process — and let me create a capsule wardrobe using fabrics I would choose to wear and prints that I am drawn to rather than what I feel the typical Matthew Williamson woman would want to wear.

What can we look forward to for fall 2010?
It will encompass all the signature elements with a bit of Spanish influence.

Describe fashion in London. What trends do you think the rest of the world should pay attention to?
I feel that there is a fun, eclectic and experimental character to London street fashion. I think everyone should feel confidence in his or her personal style and feel free to take risks.